Maison Hermès, renowned for its exceptional leather craftsmanship, offers a very wide range of luxurious accessories. Among them are undoubtedly two of the most famous bags in the world: the Kelly and the Birkin. Their two names are inevitably followed by the age-old question: which one should you choose? The fashion world has made its decision: both, of course. But why?
Follow our guide to discover the history of these two cornerstones of leather craftsmanship and learn how to tell them apart. We will help you become an expert on the subject, so you can come up with your own answer. Then proudly carry the one that wins your heart, naturally paired with a silk scarf around your neck!
Bags named after celebrities
Here is the first thing you need to know: the Kelly, named after the American actress who became Princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly, is the epitome of regal refinement. The Birkin, born from a meeting between the head of Hermès and artist Jane Birkin, was created to combine elegance with practicality.
The Kelly: from horse riders to elegant Parisian women
The story of this legendary bag began at the end of the 19th century: Thierry Hermès, founder of the illustrious Maison, created the first version of the Kelly in 1892. At the time, it was known as the “Haut à Courroies” bag and was designed to carry riders’ equestrian equipment. It was then large enough to hold substantial pieces of riding gear. In 1923, it was renamed and redesigned for the first time: it became the Torpedo and adopted the trapezoidal shape we know today. In 1930, the Maison decided to offer a smaller, more feminine version of the bag, designed to be carried on women’s arms. It underwent another transformation in 1935: its silhouette was refined and became more graceful, the leather was made more structured, and the clasp was adorned with the famous padlock. It nevertheless retained the two characteristic straps around the clasp, inherited from the original version. This decidedly feminine and chic bag quickly became a great success.
The encounter with Grace Kelly
The Kelly was still known as the “Sac à Dépêches” when Hollywood actress Grace Kelly discovered it in 1954. The actress became acquainted with the Maison through the accessories used during the filming of Alfred Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief. It was love at first sight, and the legend was born. By 1958, the actress had become Princess of Monaco. As she stepped off a plane, she tried to conceal her pregnancy – which had not yet been publicly announced – using her Hermès bag, her favourite accessory. The photograph of Grace Kelly holding her black bag in front of her travelled around the world and appeared on the covers of numerous magazines. The impact for the Maison was phenomenal: women everywhere wanted the princess’s bag on their arm.
In honour of the Monegasque princess, Hermès renamed the bag: it became the legendary “Kelly”.
The Birkin: created for Jane
The legend of the Birkin is more modern, but no less magical. According to the story, the English artist met Hermès chairman Jean-Louis Dumas during a Paris-London flight in 1981. Jane Birkin, then a young mother, complained that she could not find a bag that was both elegant and practical. Dumas challenged her to sketch the perfect bag for her needs, promising that he would create it for her. During the flight, she began drawing the bag that would become the glorious Birkin: created for its muse, it bears her name as a tribute and was officially launched in 1984.
It was the first time that a bag bearing a celebrity’s name had been created by her and specifically for her. To this day, the Birkin remains the most famous luxury bag and one of the most difficult to obtain.
How can you tell them apart?
The history of each of these two bags is reflected in their personalities.
The Kelly, created for elegant Parisian women in the early 20th century and named after a princess, is very formal. It features a single handle at the top. It closes at the front with two straps and a padlock. The position of its handle prevents it from being carried open. Its base is rectangular and fitted with four protective feet. It also comes with a shoulder strap, allowing it to be carried hands-free.
The Birkin, on the other hand, has two handles and an opening at the top of the bag, making it easy to carry open. It also features a strap across the front, although this can be left undone. It has a trapezoidal shape similar to the Kelly, with a rectangular base, but it is softer and better suited to women’s everyday lives.
While both represent the height of elegance and chic, the Kelly has a more formal appearance, while the Birkin is more practical for everyday use.
Two prestigious models that are difficult to obtain
Both are made using the most precious materials and benefit from unique craftsmanship. To obtain a new Kelly, you may have to wait three to four years. Each one is made by a single artisan and requires 20 hours of meticulous manual work. It is available in 6 sizes and also comes in two clutch-style versions: the Kelly Pochette and the Kelly Cut. For the Birkin, the waiting list can be no less than 6 years! Also handmade, it requires around 48 hours of work and is available in 5 sizes.
These models are among the most prestigious in the world, and their prices continue to rise as the years spent waiting to obtain them accumulate… The price of a Kelly has multiplied by 3.5 in 10 years, while the Birkin – due to some of its versions – is the most expensive bag in the world. Together, they account for more than a third of Hermès’ sales.
Read also: Hermès: the story behind the world’s most famous handbag
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