The House of Hermès, renowned for its exceptional leather craftsmanship, offers a very wide range of luxurious accessories. Among them are unquestionably two of the most famous bags in the world: the Kelly and the Birkin. Their two names are followed by the eternal question: which one should you choose? The fashion world has spoken: both, of course. But why?
Follow our guide to discover the history of these two cornerstones of leather goods and learn how to tell them apart. We will help you become an expert on the subject so that you can form your own opinion - and then proudly carry the one that wins your heart, ideally with an Hermès silk scarf around your neck.
Bags named after celebrities
Here is the first thing to know: the Kelly, named after American actress-turned-Princess of Monaco Grace Kelly, is the very definition of refined elegance. The Birkin, born from a chance encounter between an Hermès executive and artist Jane Birkin, was designed to combine elegance with practicality.
The Kelly: from horse riders to elegant Parisian women
The story of this legendary bag begins at the end of the nineteenth century: Thierry Hermès, founder of the illustrious house, created the first version of the Kelly in 1892. It was then known as the “Haut à Courroies” bag and was designed to carry equestrian equipment for riders. At the time, it was large enough to hold substantial gear. In 1923, it was renamed and redesigned for the first time: it became the Torpedo and adopted the trapezoidal silhouette we know today. In 1930, the House decided to create a smaller, more feminine version intended to be carried by women. Another transformation followed in 1935: its cut was refined and made more graceful, the leather became more structured and the closure was adorned with the famous padlock. It nevertheless retained the two characteristic straps around the closure, inherited from the original version. Resolutely feminine and chic, the bag became a great success.
The encounter with Grace Kelly
The Kelly was still known as the “Sac à Dépêches” when Hollywood actress Grace Kelly discovered it in 1954. She encountered the House through accessories used during the filming of Alfred Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief. It was love at first sight, and a legend was born. By 1958, the actress had become Princess of Monaco. As she stepped off a plane, she used her favorite Hermès bag to conceal a pregnancy that had not yet been publicly announced. The photograph of Grace Kelly holding the black bag in front of her traveled around the world and appeared on countless magazine covers. The impact on the House was phenomenal: women everywhere wanted the princess’s bag on their arm.
In honor of the Monegasque princess, Hermès renamed the bag: it became the legendary “Kelly.”
The Birkin: created for Jane
The legend of the Birkin is more recent, but no less magical. The story goes that the English artist met Hermès chairman Jean-Louis Dumas on a Paris-to-London flight in 1981. Jane Birkin, then a young mother, complained that she could not find a bag that was both elegant and practical. Dumas challenged her to sketch the ideal bag and promised that Hermès would make it for her. During the flight, she began drawing the bag that would become the celebrated Birkin: created for its muse, it bears her name as a tribute and was launched publicly in 1984.
It was the first time a bag bearing a celebrity’s name had been designed with her and specifically for her. To this day, the Birkin remains one of the most famous luxury bags in the world and one of the hardest to obtain.
How can you tell them apart?
The history of each bag is reflected in its personality.
The Kelly, created for elegant Parisian women in the early twentieth century and named after a princess, has a distinctly formal appearance. It has a single top handle and closes at the front with two straps and a padlock. The position of its handle means it is not designed to be carried open. Its base is rectangular and fitted with four protective feet. It also comes with a shoulder strap, allowing it to be carried hands-free.
The Birkin, by contrast, has two handles and an open top, making it easy to carry unfastened. It also features a front strap, which can be left open. Its trapezoidal silhouette and rectangular base are similar to the Kelly, but the Birkin is softer and adapts more easily to everyday life.
Both represent the height of elegance and chic, but the Kelly feels more formal, while the Birkin is more practical for everyday use.
Two prestigious models that are difficult to obtain
Both are made from the finest materials and benefit from unique craftsmanship. A new Kelly can involve a waiting period of three to four years. Each bag is handmade by a single artisan and requires around 20 hours of meticulous work. It is available in six sizes, as well as two wallet-style formats: the Kelly Pochette and Kelly Cut. For the Birkin, the wait can be as long as six years on a waiting list. Also handmade, it requires around 48 hours of work and comes in five sizes.
These models rank among the most prestigious bags in the world. Their prices continue to rise as waiting times grow. The price of a Kelly increased by around 3.5 times over ten years, while certain Birkin versions have made it one of the most expensive handbags ever sold. Together, the two models account for a significant share of Hermès bag sales.
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