Hermès is luxury within luxury. The Parisian House behind the Birkin bag has always embraced an exceptionally high-end identity, even at times when other major brands were moving into ready-to-wear and creating more casual fashion accessories. That slightly “out of reach” quality only adds to its appeal: we often want most what is hardest to obtain. And let us be honest - outside specialist platforms such as Secondement, iconic Hermès handbags such as the Birkin and Kelly can be remarkably difficult to find. Here is a closer look at the Hermès success story, from its beginnings to its enduring status in today’s fashion landscape.
A House that has always played at the highest level
This is perhaps what sets Hermès apart from many other famous designers: the House has almost always operated at the very highest end of the market. Founded by Thierry Hermès in 1837, the Paris boutique initially sold equipment for horse riders, immediately placing the company in a refined and affluent world. Recognition at the 1867 Exposition Universelle, including a first-class medal, further confirmed that privileged position. From then on, prominent figures - from European royalty to Tsar Nicholas II - regularly turned to the French manufacturer, long before Hollywood stars began appearing with Hermès handbags.
As in many great business stories, Hermès is also a family saga. Successive generations of Thierry Hermès’s descendants assembled the pieces that would create the House we know today, now one of the world’s most respected luxury leather-goods names. Charles-Émile moved the company to its famous address at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Later, Adolphe and Émile-Maurice introduced a line of luggage bags: the famous Haut à Courroies was initially used to transport a saddle, but gradually evolved into a more versatile piece of leather goods as cars began replacing horses on the roads.
From there, Hermès moved further into fashion. Jewelry, watches, gloves and, above all, handbags gradually expanded the collections. The House was also among the early adopters of zipper closures in French leather goods. The 1930s marked a decisive period for Hermès accessories: the celebrated silk carré appeared, as did the women’s bag that would later become the Kelly.
Over time, major creative figures joined forces with the Hermès family and contributed to the House’s international influence. From Lola Prusac to Martin Margiela and Jean Paul Gaultier, each brought a distinctive creative point of view.
Two emblematic bags inseparable from the House
The Kelly
It is impossible to talk about Hermès without mentioning the Kelly and Birkin. The Kelly, introduced by Hermès in the 1930s, became one of fashion’s earliest true it-bags thanks to Grace Kelly. Alfred Hitchcock played a part in her discovery of the design when, in 1954, he encouraged the costume department for To Catch a Thief to select accessories from Hermès. The future princess adopted the handbag and, two years later, was famously photographed using it to conceal the early signs of pregnancy. Soon, customers around the world were asking for the “Hermès Kelly.”
The Birkin
The Birkin bag was created during a period of renewal for Hermès, which would later see designers such as Martin Margiela and Jean Paul Gaultier lead women’s ready-to-wear. Jane Birkin met Jean-Louis Dumas, an Hermès heir and chairman of the group, on a flight in 1981. She told him how difficult it was to find a handbag that was both elegant and practical for a mother. The Hermès Birkin, developed from that conversation, went on to an extraordinary destiny. From remarkable stories about how customers managed to obtain one to the appearance of an early Birkin in museum exhibitions, everything surrounding the Hermès bag reinforces its singular aura.
A famous line from Sex & the City captures its status perfectly: “It’s not a bag, it’s a Birkin.”
As you can see, you no longer need to own a pony to buy an Hermès bag - although you may still need to move quickly to find the right Birkin. At Secondement, you can discover a varied selection of pre-owned Birkin and Kelly bags. For those who prefer something less expected, we also offer Hermès Constance, Evelyne and Bolide designs.
An exclusive House that remains connected to its time
Hermès is unquestionably a mature, high-end House. Less influenced by the eccentricity that revitalized some other major fashion houses in the 1990s, it has maintained a distinctly exclusive approach built around timeless leather accessories and handbags. Almost closer to an art of living than conventional fashion, Hermès has nevertheless developed a unique identity, balancing its bourgeois heritage with more forward-looking codes. One of the best examples is the House’s vivid orange, a bold color associated for decades with the boxes that hold Hermès luxury bags and silk scarves.
The House has also embraced more sustainable creative initiatives. In 2010, it launched the “petit h” workshop, which transforms unused material offcuts from Hermès production into new pieces and objects. From jewelry to decorative items, the project gives leftover leather and other materials a second life every bit as refined as the first.
Second lives are something we know well at Secondement. Visit our online boutique to find the vintage handbag of your dreams.
0 comments